Michaela Bercu wears two glass chandeliers as earrings in American Vogue for March 1990. Clear glass frames with ruffled edges hang beside her jaw, and below them come ribbed pink drops that rest on her collarbones, then a pair of pale gold glass leaves. The same pink turns up in her lipstick and high on her cheeks. Sheila Metzner photographed the story, "Rethinking Pink," with Polly Mellen as fashion editor and Lana Ogilvie and Estelle Lefébure as the other models, according to credits collected on Bellazon.

She was 22, and her first American Vogue cover, Anna Wintour's first as editor in November 1988, had put her outdoors in faded jeans and a jewelled Christian Lacroix top for Peter Lindbergh, a break from the formal, posed covers of the Grace Mirabella years.

Metzner put the pose back. The frame is cropped tight on her face and she isn't smiling, with her eyes straight into the lens and loose strands of hair falling across the glass, and the only clothing in view is the edge of a white strapless top. If this is pink rethought, the rethinking is mostly scale. The pink on her mouth and cheeks is ordinary enough, but the glass is big enough to rest on her collarbones. I prefer this page to the Lindbergh cover, and I suspect it could only be this still because, unlike a new editor's first cover, nobody needed it to announce anything.

The credits I've found don't name the jeweller. For spring 1990 Romeo Gigli sent Kirsten Owen down his runway hung with Murano glass, and these earrings have the same Venetian look.

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