A woman in a padded, zip-front leather jacket looks back over her shoulder in this November 1996 advert from American Vogue, one hand in a pocket and her long dark hair spilling past her shoulders, with ANDREW MARC set beneath her in serif capitals almost as wide as the page. Running up the left edge, in type you'd need to squint at, is "Photo: Chris Gbur." Gbur was on the company's payroll. By 2016 WWD was describing him as the brand's creative director, with more than three decades at Andrew Marc behind him, so this ad, at least, was made in-house. North Beach Leather cast its founder as the model, while this one had a member of staff behind the camera.

The name belongs to Andrew Marc Schwartz, who built the label with his wife, Suzanne, and according to WorthPoint she designed the womenswear. Encyclopedia.com dates the start to 1981 and a leather bomber trimmed with fur, while the company itself says 1982, and I can't tell which is right.

Nordstrom, Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus and Bloomingdale's are the stores handwritten along the bottom of the ad, and all four still appear in The Sage Group's note on the 2004 deal in which the Schwartzes brought in GB Palladin Capital, part of Gordon Brothers, and stayed on to run the firm. G-III Apparel Group bought the brand in February 2008. The retailers on Andrew Marc's own site now are Nordstrom, Macy's, Dillard's and Wilsons Leather, which G-III also owns. Saks, Neiman Marcus and Bloomingdale's are gone from it, which I read as a quiet step away from the luxury department stores that carried the brand in 1996.

My best guess for the model is Mary Matthews, because collectors credit her in Andrew Marc ads from 1993 and 1994, at least one of them shot by Gbur, but nothing I've found names the woman in this one.

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