Page 281 of the April 1988 Vogue gives Yasmin Le Bon and her roses the whole frame and almost nothing else. She has her face in the bunch, eyes shut, both hands wrapped round the stems, and she's dressed in the same red against a brown dark that swallows everything behind her shoulder. The photograph sits in a white border notched down both sides like the edge of a film strip. Eddy Kohli's credit runs up the right margin beside the art director, Nando Miglio, and up the left sits the address of Byblos USA at 650 Fifth Avenue, with a phone number printed so small it reads more like a watermark than an invitation to ring. Underneath, the name runs in hollow, rounded outline letters that look drawn with a single pen stroke.

It's an odd page for Byblos, a label known for colour and plenty of it. The Girombelli brothers of the Genny group started it in 1973, and from 1981 its clothes came from Alan Cleaver and Keith Varty, two designers hired straight out of London's Royal College of Art. The Fashion Encyclopedia credits the pair with "market-acute colorful palettes" and a relaxed, resort-going informality. Here one red has to do everything. The dress is a single sheer piece of it, bunched into a collar that slides off one shoulder, and the picture treats it as a setting for the flowers more than as something you'd go and buy.

Nor was the film-strip border unique to Byblos that year. Peter Lindbergh was photographing Le Bon for Loewe from autumn/winter 1987, and those pages keep the ragged film edge and sprocket holes too, almost always in black and white. Put the two side by side and it's the same device used for opposite ends. Lindbergh's edges make an advert look like a contact sheet somebody forgot to tidy. Kohli's are cut as clean as a stencil, around a picture that couldn't be more finished.

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