I was a great admirer of Superleggera, a limited-edition Allure that is now sadly discontinued — a short-lived gem that has since taken on almost mythic status among collectors. Bleu de Chanel has probably been my least favourite from their range, lacking the distinctive character I’ve come to expect from the house. I’ve been purchasing from Chanel’s men’s line for over thirty years, during which time I’ve witnessed the evolution of their fragrance portfolio from the classic post-war elegance of Pour Monsieur to the bold, leathered chypre of Antaeus in the 1980s, and the daring, unconventional Égoïste of the early 1990s. These three form what I consider an untouchable trinity — each one a benchmark of its era, yet all timeless in their appeal.

When Allure arrived in the late 1990s, it marked another shift in Chanel’s olfactory direction, offering a smoother, more modern sophistication that still retained depth and character. I was instantly captivated, and I’ve enjoyed many of its variations over the years. By contrast, Bleu de Chanel felt — and still feels — generic, a scent that could have been from almost any brand. That said, I remain hopeful that the new L’Exclusif will embody the heritage, daring, and artistry that have defined Chanel’s greatest men’s fragrances, delivering the masterpiece they truly should have created all along.