Romeo Gigli's second Paris show, for spring/summer 1990, is the one where the clothes made a sound. Kirsten Owen walked the runway in an outfit fringed with oversized glass beads that he had sourced from Murano, in the Venetian lagoon. She wore a glass diadem and pendant earrings that fell well below her shoulders. As she moved, the beads tinkled against each other the way a wind chime tinkles in a doorway, and partway through her walk some of them began to shatter. Tim Blanks, who has watched more shows than most people have watched anything, puts this one in his top shows of all time, and the detail he keeps coming back to is the chiming. Not the silhouette, not the styling, the sound.
The collection's official subject was Venice. Gigli had been collecting Murano glass for a while, including rejected chandelier pieces, and the show was the public flowering of that obsession. Some of the garments were quite literally constructed from glass. A few critics treated those as ready-to-wear; they were always intended to be runway pieces, a way of declaring the inspiration out loud. For the things you might actually wear, he had a Pyrex manufacturer reproduce the earrings in something less likely to end up on the parquet at the first Cipriani party. The Vogue runway record, newly digitised a few years back, notes that his Paris debut the previous autumn had drawn a twenty-five minute standing ovation, which is the kind of detail people forget once a designer becomes a cautionary tale.
What Gigli was proposing, in the most reductive terms, was the opposite of every dominant 1989 silhouette. Power-shouldered tailoring, the bodycon Versace cut, even Armani's softened suit, all of them organised the female body around the shoulders and the waist. Gigli's cocoon coats and wraps did the reverse. They absorbed the body into a single curved silhouette that referenced Byzantine icons more than any twentieth-century cut. Owen with the glass diadem looked, in the most-photographed image of the show, like the Empress Theodora. This wasn't a marketing position. He genuinely was the son of antiquarian booksellers from Castel Bolognese, had grown up with parents who collected, and had spent a decade after their deaths travelling and accumulating fabrics and objects without doing anything obvious with them. The clothes arrived already older than the trend cycle they had to inhabit.
For about three seasons after this, the Italian press was prepared to call him the Armani of the next decade. He was being photographed by Paolo Roversi, the two of them had been working together since 1985, and they had a model casting strategy that was closer to street-finding than agency work. Kirsten Owen herself had been spotted as a fourteen-year-old playing guitar on a London street, as Gigli later told AnOther, just arrived from Australia and looking to earn money. That kind of operation depends on a financial structure most people don't see, and Gigli's came apart across the early nineties. By the end of the decade he was no longer running his own house under the conditions he had started it under. The clothes that had been his other Paris act of refusal against the dressing-for-the-deal silhouette were now licensed, contested, and increasingly hard for him to control.
The S/S 1990 show is what survives. The beads, the chime, the moment the audience realised the sound was the point. He has spent most of the last fifteen years in Morocco, working with craftspeople on textile and object projects that are closer to his actual interests than a runway business ever was. The deconstruction generation that came after him absorbed some of his thinking and got more credit for it, because their politics of refusal read as harder. Gigli's politics of refusal looked like a glass diadem on a fourteen-year-old's friend, walking a runway in Paris, chiming until something broke.
Sources:
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Tim Blanks' Top Fashion Shows of All-Time: Romeo Gigli Spring/Summer 1990 — Business of Fashion
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Romeo Gigli Spring 1990 Ready-to-Wear Collection — Vogue Runway
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Romeo Gigli on Photographic Collaborations — AnOther Magazine