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Plutonic Rainbows

Jil Sander Olfactory Series 1

Minimalist fashion house Jil Sander has launched a new collection of fragrances, which debuted yesterday.

Here’s what the brand has to say:

The first Jil Sander fragrance collection fuses botany and technology in six minimalist, unisex formulas, in which the olfactory marks of aldehydes cut across key natural ingredients, giving every fragrance unique shapes and volumes. The six scents are expressions of a singular note married with aldehydes — where botany and technology meet. True to form, the duo hasn’t just created something for the sake of it: each sits perfectly on its own while complementing the others in the collection.

As for the bottles, they’re impossibly chic glass flacons with a lip around the base and an opaque cloche lid that slides into place with a satisfying click — truly a design feat that elevates the humble fragrance bottle.

Industry Disruptor

DeepSeek, a rising player in AI development, has unveiled a groundbreaking model that is shaking up Silicon Valley. The technology, which reportedly offers unparalleled capabilities in data synthesis and predictive analytics, has left competitors both impressed and unnerved. Its potential to reshape industries such as finance, healthcare, and defence has prompted admiration for its ingenuity but also concerns about ethical implications and regulatory oversight. Executives across the tech world are grappling with the model’s impact, particularly as its proprietary nature raises questions about transparency and the monopolisation of AI advancements.

While DeepSeek’s innovation is lauded as a step forward for AI, it has also triggered debates about fair competition and accountability. Critics warn that the model’s dominance could stifle smaller players and concentrate power in fewer hands. This announcement comes amid growing calls for AI governance to prevent misuse and ensure responsible development. As the industry scrambles to catch up, DeepSeek’s disruptive unveiling is a reminder of the double-edged sword of rapid technological progress.

DeepSeek Shakes Silicon Valley

DeepSeek, a Chinese start-up, has developed a free large language model called R1 that matches the performance of leading AI models such as those from OpenAI. Its rapid growth and immediate popularity, alongside a low development cost of around $5.6 million, has unsettled both investors and major US tech firms. DeepSeek’s innovative training methods and the programme’s open-source nature are especially significant given the US ban on exporting powerful computer chips to China.

Markets have reacted by selling off shares in large US technology companies that have been investing heavily in data centres to train and deploy AI. Investors are now questioning whether expensive cloud computing and vast hardware reserves are truly necessary, given DeepSeek’s demonstration of a more cost-efficient approach. Tech leaders like Microsoft’s Satya Nadella have acknowledged the impact of DeepSeek’s model and are urging serious consideration of China’s progress in AI research.

DeepSeek’s decision to release R1 as open source has been lauded as a “profound gift” but also raises concerns over potential misuse by malicious parties. Some Western developers may be wary of Chinese censorship controls embedded within the code, while others see this move as evidence of China’s resilience in circumventing US chip restrictions. Influential figures like Marc Andreessen have likened the development to a “Sputnik moment,” prompting calls for greater US investment and strategic planning to maintain a competitive edge in the global AI race.